Dictionary Definition
plasterwork n : a hardened surface of plaster (as
on a wall or ceiling); "there were cracks in the plaster" [syn:
plaster]
Extensive Definition
Plasterwork refers to construction or
ornamentation done with plaster, such as a layer of
plaster on an interior wall or plaster decorative
moldings on ceilings or walls. This is also sometimes called
pargeting. The process
of creating plasterwork, called plastering, has been used in
building construction for centuries.
History
Plasterwork is one of the most ancient of
handicrafts employed
in connection with building operations, the earliest evidence
showing that the dwellings of primitive man were erected in a
simple fashion with sticks and plastered with mud. Soon a more
lasting and sightly material was found and employed to take the
place of mud or slime, and that perfection in the compounding of
plastering materials was approached at a very remote period is made
evident by the fact that some of the earliest plastering which has
remained undisturbed excels in its scientific composition that
which we use at the present day. The pyramids in
Egypt contain plasterwork executed at least four thousand years
ago, probably much earlier, and yet existing, hard and durable, at
the present time. From recent discoveries it has been ascertained
that the principal tools of the plasterer of that time were
practically identical in design, shape and purpose with those used
to day. For their finest work, the Egyptians used a plaster made
from calcined gypsum just
like plaster of
Paris of the present time, and their methods of plastering on
reeds resemble in every way our lath, plaster, float and set work.
Hair was introduced to strengthen the stuff, and the whole finished
somewhat under an inch thick. Very early in the history of
Greek architecture we find the use of plaster of a fine white
lime stucco, such has
been found at Mycenae. The art
had reached perfection in Greece more than five centuries before
Christ, and plaster was frequently used to cover temples externally
and internally, in some cases even where the building was of
marble. It formed a splendid ground for decorative painting, which
at this period of Grecian history had reached a very high degree of
beauty. The temple of Apollo at Bassae, built of
yellow sandstone about 470 BC, is an excellent example. Pavements
of thick, hard plaster, stained with various pigments, were
commonly laid in Greek temples. The Roman architect Vitruvius, in his
book on architecture written about 16 BC, gives detailed
information concerning the methods of making plaster and the manner
of using it. "The lime used for stucco," he writes, "should be of
the best quality and tempered a long time before it is wanted for
use. The Greeks, besides making their stuccowork hard with thin
coats of marble-dust plaster polished with chalk or marble, caused
the plaster when being mixed to be beaten with wooden staves by a
great number of men. Some persons cutting slabs of such plaster
from ancient walls use them for tables and mirrors." Pliny the
Elder tells us that, "No builder should employ lime which had
not been slaked at least three years," and that, "The Greeks used
to grind their lime very fine and beat it with pestles of wood." In
England the walls of large houses and mansions were formerly
plastered above the wainscoting and colored, while the ornamented
plaster ceilings of the time of Henry VIII,
Elizabeth and James I, are still the admiration of lovers of the
art. Still earlier specimens of the plasterer's skill are extant in
the pargeted and ornamented fronts of half-timbered houses. With
regard to the smaller buildings, comprising small dwelling houses
and cottages, the general application of plaster is of
comparatively late date; for wainscoted walls and boarded
ceilings or naked joists alone are frequently found in houses of
not more than a century old both in England and on the
Continent.
Tools and Materials
Comparatively few items are required for the more
common plastering operations, although the craftsman
well-versed in all disciplines of the trade will possess a wide
range of tools and materials. These would
typically include trowels, floats, hammers, screeds, a hawk,
scratching tools, utility
knives, laths, lath
nails,
lime,
sand, hair, plaster of
Paris, a variety of cements, and various ingredients
to form color
washes.
While most tools have remained unchanged over the
centuries, developments in modern
materials have led to some relatively recent changes. Trowels,
originally constructed from steel, are now available in a polycarbonate material
that allows the application of certain new, acrylic-based materials
without staining the finish. Floats, traditionally made of timber
(ideally straight-grained, knot-free, yellow pine), are often
finished with a layer of sponge or expanded polystyrene.
Laths
Traditionally, plaster was laid onto laths,
rather than board as is more commonplace nowadays. Wooden laths are narrow strips of
straight-grained wood, generally pine, in lengths
of from two to four or five feet to suit the distances at which the
timbers of a floor or partition are set. Laths are about an inch
wide, and are made in three thicknesses; single (1/8 to 3/16 inch
thick), lath and a half (1/4 inch thick), and double (3/8-1/2 inch
thick). The thicker laths should be used in ceilings, to stand the
extra strain, and the thinner variety in vertical work such as
partitions, except where the latter will be subjected to rough
usage, in which case thicker laths become necessary. Laths are
usually nailed with a space of about 3/8 of an inch between them to
form a key for the plaster. Laths were formerly all made by hand. A
large quantity, however, are now made by machinery and are known as
sawn laths, those made by hand being called rent or riven laths.
Rent laths give the best results, as they split in a line with the
grain of the wood, and are stronger and not so liable to twist as
machine-made laths, some of the fibers of which are usually cut in
the process of sawing.
Laths must be nailed so as to break joint in bays
three or four feet wide with ends butted one against the other. By
breaking the joints of the lathing in this way, the tendency for
the plaster to crack along the line of joints is diminished and a
better key is obtained. Every lath should be nailed at each end and
wherever it crosses a joist or stud. All timbers over three inches
wide should be counter-lathed, that is, have a fillet or double
lath nailed along the centre upon which the laths are then nailed.
This is done to preserve a good key for the plaster. Walls liable
to damp are sometimes battened and lathed in order to form an air
cavity between the damp wall and the plastering.
Lathing in metal, either in wire or in the form
of perforated galvanised sheets, is now extensively used on account
of its fireproof and lasting quality. There are very many kinds of
this material in different designs under various patents, the best
known in England being the Jhilmil, the Bostwick, Lathing, and
Expanded Metal lathing. The two last-named are also widely used in
America. Lathing nails are usually of iron, cut, wrought or cast,
and in the better class of work they are galvanized to prevent
rusting. Zinc nails are sometimes used, but are costly.
Lime
The lime
principally used for internal plastering is that calcined from
chalk, oyster shells or
other nearly pure limestone, and is known as
fat, pure, chalk or rich lime. Hydraulic limes are also used by the
plasterer, chiefly for external work. Perfect slaking of the
calcined lime before being used is very important as, if used in a
partially slaked condition, it will "blow" when in position and
blister the work. Lime should therefore be run as soon as the
building is begun, and at least three weeks should elapse between
the operation of running the lime and its use.
Hair
Hair is used in
plaster as a binding medium, and gives tenacity to the material.
Traditionally horses' hair was the most commonly-used binder, as it
was easily available before the proliferation of the motor-car. It
functions in much the same way as the strands in fiberglass resin, by
controlling and containing any small cracks within the mortar while
it dries or when it is subject to flexing. Ox-hair, which is sold
in three qualities, is now the kind usually specified; but
horsehair, which is shorter, is sometimes substituted or mixed with
the ox-hair in the lower qualities. Good hair should be long,
strong, and free from grease and dirt, and before use must be well
beaten to separate the lumps. In America, goats' hair is frequently
used, though it is not so strong as ox-hair. The quantity used in
good work is one pound of hair to two or three cubic feet of coarse
stuff.
Manila hemp fiber has been used as a
substitute for hair. As a result of experiments to ascertain its
strength as compared with Substitutes that of other materials, it
was found that plaster for hair slabs made with Manila hemp fiber
broke at 195 lb, plaster mixed with Sisal hemp at 150 lb, jute at 145 lb, and goats' hair at
144 lb. Another test was made in the following manner. Two barrels
of mortar were made up of equal proportions of lime and sand, one
containing the usual quantity of goats' hair, and the other Manila
fiber. After remaining in a dry cellar for nine months the barrels
were opened. It was found that the hair had been almost entirely
eaten away by the action of the lime, and the mortar consequently
broke up and crumbled quite easily. The mortar containing the
Manila hemp, on the other hand, showed great cohesion, and required
some effort to pull it apart, the hemp fiber being apparently quite
uninjured.
Sawdust has been used as a substitute for hair
and also instead of sand as an aggregate.
It will enable mortar to stand the effects of frost and rough
weather. It is useful sometimes for heavy cornices and similar
work, as it renders the material light and strong. The sawdust
should be used dry.
Methods
For fine plasterer's sand-work, special sands,
not hitherto referred to, are used, such as silver sand, which is
used when a light color and fine texture are required. In England
this fine white sand is procured chiefly from Leighton Buzzard. For
external work Portland
cement is undoubtedly the best material on account of its
strength, durability, and weather resisting External properties.
The first coat or rendering is from 1/2 to 3/4 inches thick, and is
mixed in the proportions of from one part of cement to two of sand
to one part to five of sand. The finishing or setting coat is about
3/16 inches thick, and is worked with a hand float on the surface
of the rendering, which must first be well wetted.
External Plastering
Stucco is a term
loosely applied to nearly all kinds of external plastering, whether
composed of lime or of cement. At the present time it has fallen
into disfavor, but in the early part of the 19th century a great
deal of this work was done. The principal varieties of stucco are
common, rough, trowelled and bastard. Cement has largely superseded
lime for this work. Common stucco for external work is usually
composed of one part hydraulic lime and three parts sand. The wall
should be sufficiently rough to form a key and well wetted to
prevent the moisture being absorbed from the plaster.
Rough stucco is used to imitate stonework. It is worked with a
hand float covered with rough felt, which forms a sand surface on
the plaster. Lines are ruled before the stuff is set to represent
the joints of stonework. Trowelled stucco, the finishing coat of
this work, consists of three parts sand to two parts fine stuff. A
very fine smooth surface is produced by means of the hand float.
Bastard stucco is of similar composition, but less labor is
expended on it. It is laid on in two coats with a skimming float,
scoured off at once, and then trowelled. Colored stucco: lime
stucco may be executed in colors, the desired tints being obtained
by mixing with the lime various oxides. Black and grays are
obtained by using forge ashes in varying proportions, greens by
green enamel, reds by using litharge or red lead, and blues by
mixing oxide or carbonate of copper with the other materials.
Roughcast or pebbledash plastering is a rough
form of external plastering in much use for country houses. In
Scotland it is termed "harling". It is one of the oldest forms of
external plastering. In Tudor times it was employed to fill in
between the woodwork of half-timbered framing. When well executed
with good material this kind of plastering is very durable.
Roughcasting is performed by first rendering the wall or laths with
a coat of well-haired coarse stuff composed either of good
hydraulic lime or of Portland cement. This layer is well scratched
to give a key for the next coat, which is also composed of coarse
stuff knocked up to a smooth and uniform consistency. While this
coat is still soft, gravel, shingle or other small stones are
evenly thrown on with a small scoop and then brushed over with thin
lime mortar to give a uniform surface. The shingle is often dipped
in hot lime paste, well stirred up, and used as required.
Sgraffito (scratched ornament)
Sgraffito is the
name for scratched ornament in plaster. Scratched ornament is the
oldest form of surface decoration, and at the present day it is
much used on the continent of Europe, especially in Germany and
Italy, in both external and internal situations. Properly treated,
the work is durable, effective and inexpensive. The process is
carried out in this way: A first coat or rendering of Portland
cement and sand, in the proportion of one to three, is laid on
about an inch thick; then follows the color coat, sometimes put on
in patches of different tints as required for the finished design.
When this coat is nearly dry, it is finished with a
smooth-skimming, 1/12 to 1/8 inches thick, of Parian, selenitic or
other fine cement or lime, only as much as can be finished in one
day being laid on. Then by pouncing through the pricked cartoon,
the design is transferred to the plastered surface. Broad spaces of
background are now exposed by removing the finishing coat, thus
revealing the colored plaster beneath, and following this the
outlines of the rest of the design are scratched with an iron knife
through the outer skimming to the underlying tinted surface.
Sometimes the coats are in three different
colors, such as brown for the first, red for the second, and white
or grey for the final coat. The pigments used for this work include
Indian red, Turkey red, Antwerp blue, German blue, umber, ochre,
purple brown, bone black or oxide of manganese for black.
Combinations of these colors are made to produce any desired tone.
Lime plastering is composed of lime, sand, hair and water in
proportions varying according to the nature of the work to be done.
In all cases good materials, well mixed and skillfully applied, are
essential to a perfect result.
Coats
Plaster or render that is applied to external brickwork on dwellings or commercial buildings can be one or two coats in Western Australia. Mostly clay bricks are used sometimes concrete bricks or concrete tilt panels. Materials used are commonly sand of a light yellow colour with little clay content with fine to coarse grains or sand. Sand finish is the common term used for external render and may be one or two coats the better being two coat as it gives a more consistent finish and less chance of becoming drummy or cracking. In two coat render a base coat is applied with a common mix of five parts sand to one part cement and one part dehydrated lime and water to make a consistent mortar. Render is applied using a hawk and trowel and pushed on about 12 mm thick to begin. Most plasterers use a tbar to screed of walls until it is plumb straight and square. Scratching the wall after screeding is complete is a good idea to give key to second coat. An old saw can be used or maybe just get some tin and cut angles and use on wall. The second can be slightly weaker or the same 5/1/1 and maybe a water proofer in the mix added in the water to minimize effloresence (rising of salts) Some plasterers used lime putty in second coat instead of dehydrated lime in the render. The mortar is applied to about 5 mm thick and when the render hardens is screeded off straight. A wood float or plastic float is used to rub down the walls. Water is splashed on walls and immediately rubbing the float in a circular or figure 8 motion. After the work area is all floated, the finishing with a sponge using the same method as floating with wood float. Bringing sand to the surface. most plasterers use a hose with a special nozzle with a fine mist spray to dampen walls when rubbing up (using a wood float to bring a consistent finish) This method using a hose brings a superior finish and more consistent in colour as there is more chance in catching the render before it has a chance to harden too much.Plaster is applied in successive coats or layers
on walls or lathing and gains its name from the number of these
coats. One coat work is the coarsest and cheapest class of
plastering, and is limited to inferior buildings, such as
outhouses, where merely a rough coating is required to keep out the
weather and draughts. This is described as render on brickwork, and lath and lay or
lath and plaster one coat on studding. Two-coat work is often used
for factories or warehouses and the less important rooms of
residences. The first coat is of coarse stuff finished fair with
the darby float and scoured. A thin coat of setting stuff is then
laid on, and trowelled and brushed smooth. Two-coat work is
described as render and set on walls, and lath, plaster and set, or
lath, lay and set on laths.
Three-coat work is usually specified for all good
work. It consists, as its name implies, of three layers of
material, and is described as render, float and set on walls and
lath, plaster, float and set, or lath, lay, float and set, on
lathwork. This makes a strong, straight, sanitary coating for walls
and ceilings. The process for three coat work is as follows: For
the first coat a layer of well-haired coarse stuff, about 1 inch
thick, is put on with the laying trowel. This is termed "pricking
up" in London, and in America "scratch coating". It should be laid
on diagonally, each trowelful overlapping the previous one. When on
laths the stuff should be plastic enough to be worked through the
spaces between the laths to form a key, yet so firm as not to drop
off. The surface while still soft is scratched with a lath to give
a key for the next coat, which is known as the second or "floating
coat", and is 1/4 to 3/8 inches thick. In Scotland this part of the
process is termed "straightening" and in America "browning", and is
performed when the first coat is dry, so as to form a straight
surface to receive the finishing coat. Four operations are involved
in laying the second coat, namely, forming the screeds; filling in
the spaces between the screeds; scouring the surface; keying the
face for finishing. Wall screeds are plumbed and ceiling screeds
leveled. Screeds are narrow strips of plastering, carefully plumbed
and leveled, so as to form a guide upon which the floating rule is
run, thus securing a perfectly horizontal or vertical surface, or,
in the case of circular work, a uniform curve. The filling in, or
flanking, consists of laying the spaces between the screeds with
coarse stuff, which is brought flush with the level of the screeds
with the floating rule.
The scouring of the floating coat is of great
importance, for it consolidates the material, and, besides
hardening it, prevents it from cracking. It is done by the
plasterer with a hand float that he applies vigorously with a rapid
circular motion, at the same time sprinkling the work with water
from a stock brush in the other hand. Any small holes or
inequalities are filled up as he proceeds. The whole surface should
be uniformly scoured two or three times, with an interval between
each operation of from six to twenty-four hours. This process
leaves the plaster with a close-grained and fairly smooth surface,
offering little or no key to the coat that is to follow. To obtain
proper cohesion, however, a roughened face is necessary, and this
is obtained by keying the surface with a wire brush or nail float,
that is, a hand float with the point of a nail sticking through and
projecting about 1/8 inch; sometimes a point is put at each corner
of the float. After the floating is finished to the walls and
ceiling, the next part of internal plastering is the running of the
cornice, followed by the finishing of the ceiling and walls. The
third and final coat is the setting coat, which should be about 1/8
inch thick. In Scotland it is termed the "finishing coat", and in
America the "hard finish coat" or "putty coat". Considerable skill
is required at this juncture to bring the work to a perfectly true
finish, uniform in color and texture. Setting stuff should not be
applied until the floating is quite firm and nearly dry, but it
must not be too dry or the moisture will be drawn from the setting
stuff. The coarse stuff applied as the first coat is composed of
sand and lime, usually in proportions approximating to two to one,
with hair mixed into it in quantities of about a pound to two or
three cubic feet of mortar. It should be mixed with clean water to
such a consistency that a quantity picked up on the point of a
trowel holds well together and does not drop.
Floating stuff is of finer texture than that used
for pricking up, and is used in a softer state, enabling it to be
worked well into the keying of the first coat. A smaller proportion
of hair is also used. Fine stuff mixed with sand is used for the
setting coat. Fine stuff, or lime putty, is pure lime that has been
slaked and then mixed with water to a semi-fluid consistency, and
allowed to stand until it has developed into a soft paste. For use
in setting it is mixed with fine washed sand in the ratio of one to
three. For cornices and for setting when the second coat is not
allowed time to dry properly, a special compound must be used. This
is often gauged stuff, composed of three or four parts of lime
putty and one part of plaster of Paris, mixed up in small
quantities immediately before use. The plaster in the material
causes it to set rapidly, but if it is present in too large a
proportion the work will crack in setting. The hard cements used
for plastering, such as Parian, Keene's, and Martin's, are laid
generally in two coats, the first of cement and sand 1/2 to 3/4
inches in thickness, the second or setting coat of neat cement
about 1/8 inch thick. These and similar cements have gypsum as a
base, to which a certain proportion of another substance, such as
alum, borax or carbonate of soda, is added, and the whole baked or
calcined at a low temperature. The plaster they contain causes them
to set quickly with a very hard smooth surface, which may be
painted or papered within a few hours of its being finished.
Moldings
Plain, or unenriched, moldings
are formed with a running mold of zinc cut to the required profile.
Enrichments may be moldings added after the main outline molding is
set, and are cast in molds made of gelatin or plaster of Paris. For
a cornice molding two running rules are usual, one on the wall, the
other on the ceiling, upon which the mold is worked to and fro by
one workman, while another man roughly lays on the plaster to the
shape of the molding. The miters at the angles are finished off
with joint rules made of sheet steel of various lengths, three or
four inches wide, and about one-eighth inch thick, with one end cut
to an angle of about 30°. In some cases the steel plate is let into
a stock or handle of hardwood.
Cracks
Cracks in plastering may be caused by settlement
of the building, and by the use of inferior materials or by bad
workmanship, but cracks, apart from these causes, and taking the
materials and labor as being of the best, cracks may yet ensue by
the too fast drying of the work, caused through the laying of
plaster on dry walls which suck from the composition the moisture
required to enable it to set, by the application of external heat
or the heat of the sun, by the laying of a coat upon one which has
not properly set, the cracking in this case being caused by unequal
contraction, or by the use of too small a proportion of sand.
Building and background movement even on a settled building can
contribute to cracking in plaster work.
Traditionally, crack propagation was arrested by
stirring chopped horse hair thoroughly into the plaster mix.
Slabs
For partitions and ceilings, plaster slabs are
now in very general use when work has to be finished quickly. For
ceilings they require simply to be nailed to the joists, the joints
being made with plaster, and the whole finished with a thin setting
coat. In some cases, with fireproof floors, for instance, the slabs
are hung up with wire hangers so as to allow a space of several
inches between the soffit of the concrete floor and the ceiling.
For partitions the slabs frequently have the edges tongued and
grooved to form a better connection; often, too, they are holed
through vertically, so that, when grouted in with semi-fluid
plaster, the whole partition is bound together, as it were, with
plaster dowels. Where very great strength is required the work may
be reinforced by small iron rods through the slabs. This forms a
very strong and rigid partition which is at the same time
fire-resisting and of lightweight, and when finished measures only
from two to four inches thick.
The slabs may be obtained either with a keyed
surface, which requires finishing with a setting coat when the
partition or ceiling is in position, or a smooth finished face,
which may be papered or painted immediately the joints have been
carefully made. Partitions are also formed with one or other of the
forms of metal lathing previously referred to, fixed to iron
uprights and plastered on both sides. So strong is the result that
partitions of this class only two or three inches thick were used
for temporary cells for prisoners at Newgate Gaol during the
rebuilding of the new sessions house in the Old
Bailey, London.
Fibrous plaster
Fibrous plaster is given by plasterers the
suggestive name "stick and rag", and this is a rough description of
the material, for it is Fibrous composed of plaster laid upon a
backing of canvas stretched on wood. It is much used for moldings,
circular and enriched casings to columns and girders and ornamental
work, which, being worked in the shop and then nailed or otherwise
fixed in position, saves the delay often attendant upon the working
of ornament in position. Desachy, a French modeler, took out in
1856 a patent for "producing architectural moldings, ornaments and
other works of art, with surfaces of plaster," with the aid of
plaster, glue, wood, wire, and canvas or other woven fabric. The
modern use of this material may be said to have started then, but
the use of fibrous plaster was known and practiced by the Egyptians
long before the Christian era; for ancient coffins and mummies
still preserved prove that linen stiffened with plaster was used
for decorating coffins and making masks. Cennino Cennini, writing
in 1437, says that fine linen soaked in glue and plaster and laid
on wood was used for forming grounds for painting. Canvas and
mortar were in general use in Great Britain up to the middle of the
last century. This work is also much used for temporary work, such
as exhibition buildings.
Examples
In England, fine examples of plasterwork
interiors of the early modern period can be seen at Chastleton
House, (Oxfordshire), Knole House,
(Kent), Wilderhope (Shropshire), Speke Hall,
(Merseyside), and
Haddon
Hall, (Derbyshire).
Some examples of outstanding extant historical plasterwork
interiors are found in Scotland, where
the three finest specimens of interior plasterwork are elaborate
decorated ceilings from the early 1600s at Muchalls
Castle, Glamis
Castle and Craigievar
Castle, all of which are in the northeast region of that
country. The craft or modelled plasterwork, inspired by the style
of the early modern period, was revived by the designers of the
Arts
and Crafts movement in late-19th- and early-20th-century
England. Notable practitioners were Ernest
Gimson, his pupil Norman
Jewson, and George P. Bankart, who published extensively on the
subject. Examples are preserved today at Owlpen Manor
and Rodmarton
Manor, both in the Cotswolds. Modern
ornate fibrous plasterwork by the specialist company of Clark &
Fenn can be seen at
Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, the London
Palladium, Grand
Theatre Leeds, Somerset
House,
The Plaisterers' Hall and St.
Clement Danes
plasterwork in German: Stuck
plasterwork in Dutch: Stukadoor
plasterwork in Polish: Tynk